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Daily Report

Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis

02/20/2025
3 papers selected
3 analyzed

A large triple-blind RCT in preschool children shows hydroxyapatite-fluoride toothpastes inactivate enamel caries lesions more effectively than standard monofluorophosphate formulations. A randomized clinical study supports a microbiome-informed emollient "plus" over 10% urea for mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. A mechanistic study identifies a secreted keratinase enabling gentler enzymatic skin exfoliation, suggesting a safer alternative to chemical acids.

Summary

A large triple-blind RCT in preschool children shows hydroxyapatite-fluoride toothpastes inactivate enamel caries lesions more effectively than standard monofluorophosphate formulations. A randomized clinical study supports a microbiome-informed emollient "plus" over 10% urea for mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. A mechanistic study identifies a secreted keratinase enabling gentler enzymatic skin exfoliation, suggesting a safer alternative to chemical acids.

Research Themes

  • Biomimetic materials for preventive oral health
  • Microbiome-informed dermocosmetics for barrier repair
  • Enzymatic exfoliation as a safer cosmetic modality

Selected Articles

1. Hydroxyapatite-Fluoride Toothpastes on Caries Activity: A Triple-Blind Randomized Clinical Trial.

7.75Level IRCT
International dental journal · 2025PMID: 39971658

In a triple-blind RCT of 610 preschool children over 24 months, hydroxyapatite-fluoride toothpastes achieved greater inactivation of enamel caries lesions than monofluorophosphate toothpastes. Differences for dentinal lesions were smaller, but the hydroxyapatite group showed more inactivated lesions overall. Both regimens were used three times daily, with 518 completing the trial.

Impact: This large, long-term, triple-blind RCT provides high-level evidence that biomimetic hydroxyapatite-fluoride formulations outperform standard monofluorophosphate in managing active enamel caries in children.

Clinical Implications: For children with active caries in primary dentition, hydroxyapatite-fluoride toothpastes may be preferred over monofluorophosphate to promote lesion inactivation and enamel remineralization.

Key Findings

  • Triple-blind RCT (n=610; 24 months) compared two HAF toothpastes (1000 and 1450 ppmF) versus two NaMFP controls.
  • HAF significantly increased inactivation of enamel lesions versus NaMFP (P<.01); transition from active to inactive status in primary teeth favored HAF (P=.04).
  • Dentinal lesion outcomes were similar between groups (P=.08), though HAF showed more inactivated lesions overall; 518 participants completed per-protocol.

Methodological Strengths

  • Large, triple-blind, randomized, multi-arm design with 24-month follow-up.
  • Standardized brushing protocol and clinically relevant caries activity endpoints.

Limitations

  • Per-protocol analysis may introduce attrition bias.
  • Compliance and diet-related confounders were not detailed; radiographic outcomes were not reported.

Future Directions: Confirm findings with intention-to-treat analyses, include radiographic assessments, microbiome profiling, and cost-effectiveness; evaluate real-world adherence.

The study aimed to evaluate the remineralizing effect of hydroxyapatite and fluoride containing toothpastes (HAF's) on active caries lesions compared to a fluoridated standard toothpaste in pre/schoolchildren. A total of 610 children (4-5 and 6-7 years old) were enrolled. Four toothpastes, 2 containing fluoride-substituted hydroxyapatite (HAF) (1000 and 1450 ppmF) and magnesium-, strontium-, carbonate-substituted hydroxyapatite, in a chitosan matrix and 2 Mono fluoridated toothpastes (NaMFP) (1000 and 1450 ppmF), were randomly administered for 24 months. The children were instructed to brush for 2 minutes 3 times/day. Caries activities, by clinical surface features, were recorded at baseline and 12- and 24-month follow-ups. A per-protocol analysis was adopted, thus excluding children lost to follow-up. Overall, 518 children completed the trial. Baseline comparisons revealed no significant differences in primary teeth caries rates between HAF and NaMFP groups, both for enamel and dentinal lesions. By the end of the study, the HAF group exhibited a statistically significant reduction in enamel lesions compared to the NaMFP group (P < .01). Of the 40 partially active lesions at baseline in the HAF group, 13 were inactive at the 2-year follow-up. Of the active lesions in the HAF group (n = 78) at baseline, nearly 3-quarters (n = 58) were inactive at the follow-up. The difference between the 2 groups (HAF vs NaMFP) in terms of change of status in primary dentition (active at baseline and inactive at follow-up) was statistically significant (P = .04). Regarding dentinal lesions, both groups presented similar percentages of inactive lesions that were filled at the end of follow-up (P = .08). However, the HAF group demonstrated a higher number of inactivated lesions compared to the NaMFP group. The toothpaste containing biomimetic hydroxyapatite and fluoride may be better for children with active caries lesion in primary dentition.

2. Characterization of keratinase from Chryseobacterium camelliae Dolsongi-HT1 and efficacy on skin exfoliation.

7.25Level VBasic/Mechanistic Research
Enzyme and microbial technology · 2025PMID: 39970752

A secreted keratinase from Chryseobacterium camelliae Dolsongi-HT1 effectively decomposed human skin keratin and exfoliated the stratum corneum in reconstituted skin models with less abrasion than chemical methods. The enzyme (iHT1) was identified, recombinantly expressed in Bacillus subtilis, and retained high activity across 30–60 °C with an optimal pH of 8.

Impact: Introduces an enzymatic exfoliation approach that preserves the epidermis, offering a mechanistically novel and potentially safer alternative to acid-based peels in cosmetic dermatology.

Clinical Implications: If safety and tolerability are confirmed clinically, keratinase-based exfoliants could provide gentler options for patients with sensitive skin or barrier impairment, reducing risks associated with chemical peels.

Key Findings

  • C. camelliae Dolsongi-HT1 secretes a keratinolytic enzyme that decomposes human skin keratin and efficiently exfoliates the stratum corneum in reconstituted skin models.
  • Enzymatic exfoliation with HT1 was less abrasive and did not damage the epidermal layer compared with common chemical exfoliants.
  • The identified enzyme (iHT1) was purified, mass-spectrometry characterized, recombinantly expressed in Bacillus subtilis, and showed broad thermal activity (30–60 °C) with optimal pH 8.

Methodological Strengths

  • Functional validation on human forearm keratin and reconstituted human skin models.
  • Biochemical identification and recombinant expression confirming enzyme identity and activity.

Limitations

  • No in vivo human clinical trials; safety and irritation profiles remain untested in participants.
  • Long-term effects on skin barrier function and microbiome were not assessed.

Future Directions: Conduct dose-ranging human trials assessing irritation, sensitization, barrier recovery, and comparative efficacy versus alpha/beta-hydroxy acids; optimize formulation and delivery.

Keratin is the outermost layer that protects our skin and has an appropriate turnover cycle. With age, the keratin turnover cycle begins to dysfunction. To overcome this issue, we artificially remove dead skin cells. In this study, we attempted to screen enzymes that could be useful in the cosmetics industry to develop enzymes suitable for the enzyme-based method, a mild exfoliation method that does not damage the skin. Chryseobacterium camelliae Dolsongi-HT1 with keratinolytic activity was isolated from green tea leaves (sourced from the Dolsongi tea garden, Jeju Island). The keratinolytic activity of C. camelliae Dolsongi-HT1 was detected in the culture media, indicating that the target keratinolytic enzyme is a secreted protein. Keratinolytic activity was demonstrated using forearm skin keratin and reconstituted human skin models. The enzyme from C. camelliae Dolsng-HT1 (HT1) could efficiently decompose human skin keratin. Moreover, experiments using the reconstituted human skin model demonstrated that HT1 is efficient in exfoliating the outermost stratum corneum. Compared with the popularly used chemical exfoliation method, enzymatic exfoliation using HT1 was less abrasive and did not damage the epidermal layer. Keratinolytic enzyme was identified using protein purification and mass spectrometry. The identified enzyme (iHT1) was expressed in the Bacillus subtilis RIK 1285 secretory protein expression system. The iHT1 enzyme showed high activity over a wide temperature range (30-60 °C), with the highest activity at 30 °C. The optimum pH for the activity of iHT was pH8.

3. Effectiveness and Tolerability of an Emollient "Plus" Compared to Urea 10% in Patients With Mild-to-Moderate Atopic Dermatitis.

6.3Level IIRCT
Journal of cosmetic dermatology · 2025PMID: 39973079

In a 12-week randomized study (n=60), an emollient containing bacterial lysate outperformed 10% urea for mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis, improving TEWL, pH, hydration, SCORAD by weeks 8–12, and EASI, DLQI, and pruritus by week 12. Both products were well tolerated.

Impact: Provides comparative randomized evidence supporting a microbiome-targeted emollient over a widely used 10% urea moisturizer for AD management.

Clinical Implications: For mild-to-moderate AD, emollient "plus" can be preferred to 10% urea to enhance barrier repair and symptom control, either as monotherapy for milder cases or adjunct to other treatments.

Key Findings

  • Randomized 12-week trial (n=60) comparing emollient "plus" vs 10% urea applied twice daily.
  • Emollient "plus" significantly improved TEWL and pH at weeks 4, 8, 12; SCORAD and hydration at weeks 8 and 12.
  • By week 12, EASI, DLQI, and pruritus VAS were significantly better with emollient "plus"; both products were well tolerated.

Methodological Strengths

  • Randomized design with multiple validated clinical and instrumental endpoints.
  • Assessment across multiple time points over 12 weeks enhances temporal resolution of effects.

Limitations

  • Small sample size and single-country setting may limit generalizability.
  • Blinding and concomitant therapies were not specified; potential performance or co-intervention bias.

Future Directions: Larger multicenter, blinded RCTs with microbiome and colonization endpoints, longer maintenance phases, and head-to-head comparisons with other modern emollients.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) poses a challenge due to its chronic inflammatory nature. Recent research highlights microbiome dysbiosis as a key contributor. Emollients "plus" are modern moisturizers containing bacterial lysate, improving skin barrier function and reducing Staphylococcus aureus colonization, thus mitigating AD symptoms. Emollient "plus" containing Vitreoscilla filiformis biomass (Aqua Posae filiformis) is efficient in AD, as single adjunct for milder forms or adjunctive to systemic treatments in more severe forms. Standard recommended moisturizers for AD in Indonesia contain urea 10%. AIMS: This trial compared an emollient "plus" (Group A) with urea 10% moisturizer (Group B) in the treatment of mild-to-moderate AD. PATIENTS/METHODS: Sixty subjects with mild-to-moderate AD were randomized into Groups A and B (30 subjects/group). Test products were applied twice daily for 12 weeks. Clinical and instrumental endpoints assessed at Weeks 0, 4, 8, and 12 included Severity Scoring of AD (SCORAD), Pruritus Visual Analog Scale (PVAS), Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI), Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI), Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin pH, as well as tolerance evaluation. RESULTS: Significant differences in favor of the emollient "plus" versus urea 10% were observed on TEWL and skin pH values at Weeks 4, 8, and 12, on SCORAD and skin hydration values at Weeks 8 and 12. EASI, DLQI, and PVAS values differed significantly at Week 12 in favor of Group A. Both products were well tolerated. CONCLUSIONS: This emollient "plus" has superior efficacy in improving AD symptoms and skin barrier function compared to urea 10% moisturizer.