Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis
Methodological and safety advances dominate today’s cosmetic-related research. A new ISO-standardized in vitro SPF method shows high reproducibility and accuracy, reducing reliance on human testing. Parallel work reveals substantial dermal penetration and barrier disruption by PFAS, while a bioengineered humanized collagen (Y326) demonstrates preclinical anti-aging efficacy as a stable alternative to animal-derived collagens.
Summary
Methodological and safety advances dominate today’s cosmetic-related research. A new ISO-standardized in vitro SPF method shows high reproducibility and accuracy, reducing reliance on human testing. Parallel work reveals substantial dermal penetration and barrier disruption by PFAS, while a bioengineered humanized collagen (Y326) demonstrates preclinical anti-aging efficacy as a stable alternative to animal-derived collagens.
Research Themes
- Non-animal, standardized SPF testing (ISO 23675) for sunscreen evaluation
- Dermal safety and barrier effects of PFAS from consumer/cosmetic products
- Bioengineered collagen as an alternative to animal-derived materials for anti-aging
Selected Articles
1. Performance assessment of the Double Plate method (ISO23675) in ALT-SPF Consortium: A highly reproducible and accurate in vitro method to determine SPF.
Across five laboratories and 32 sunscreen products (with a 12-product follow-up), the ISO 23675 Double Plate method showed excellent intra- and inter-lab reproducibility and, after mathematical adjustment, close accuracy versus the ISO 24444:2019 in vivo reference. Its adoption as an ISO standard enables robust, ethical, and scalable in vitro SPF testing.
Impact: This work operationalizes a validated, standardized, non-animal SPF assay, directly impacting sunscreen development, labeling, and regulatory compliance.
Clinical Implications: Dermatologists can have greater confidence in SPF labeling backed by a robust in vitro standard, facilitating patient counseling on photoprotection while reducing human testing burdens.
Key Findings
- High intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility met ISO/TC217/WG7 precision criteria.
- Post hoc mathematical adjustment yielded close alignment with the ISO 24444:2019 in vivo reference method.
- Standardized robotic application and spectrophotometry minimized variability across five laboratories.
- Evidence supported publication as ISO 23675 (December 2024), enabling an ethical in vitro SPF alternative.
Methodological Strengths
- Multi-laboratory ring testing with diverse global formulations
- Standardized robotic application and predefined ISO precision criteria
Limitations
- Accuracy required a mathematical adjustment to reduce initial bias versus the reference method
- Real-world factors (e.g., water resistance, user application variability) are not directly captured by in vitro plate testing
Future Directions: Expand validation to challenging formulations and integrate assessments of photostability and water resistance; promote global regulatory harmonization and data-sharing to enhance reproducibility.
2. Y326: A highly stable and bioactive substitute for animal-derived collagens in biomedical and cosmetic uses.
Rational engineering of humanized collagen III produced Y326, a stable, high-purity triple-helical protein that enhances adhesion, migration, proliferation, and ECM synthesis in vitro and improves wrinkles, hydration, dermal thickness, and collagen I expression in a photoaging model. Y326 directly addresses shortcomings of animal-derived collagens for anti-aging.
Impact: Introduces a bioengineered humanized collagen with preclinical efficacy, potentially transforming anti-aging materials by improving safety and consistency over animal sources.
Clinical Implications: If validated clinically, Y326 could replace animal-derived collagen in dermal fillers, wound repair matrices, and cosmeceuticals, reducing pathogen and immunogenic risks and improving batch consistency.
Key Findings
- Designed 19 humanized collagen III variants retaining RGD/GER motifs; selected variant 019 and developed repeating Y88, then optimized to Y326 by removing unstable residues.
- Y326 preserved triple-helical structure and promoted cell adhesion, migration, proliferation, and ECM synthesis in vitro.
- In a skin photoaging model, Y326 reduced wrinkles, improved hydration, increased dermal thickness, and upregulated endogenous collagen I.
Methodological Strengths
- Stepwise rational design with mass spectrometry-guided optimization
- Convergent validation across structural analysis, in vitro functional assays, and in vivo photoaging model
Limitations
- Preclinical stage without human clinical trials; long-term safety and immunogenicity remain unknown
- Manufacturing scalability, stability in finished formulations, and regulatory pathways require clarification
Future Directions: Conduct GLP toxicology and first-in-human studies, evaluate performance in dermal filler or scaffold applications, and benchmark against current animal-derived and recombinant collagens.
3. In vitro assessment of dermal penetration and skin barrier impairment by per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) from consumer products.
Using porcine skin and human skin equivalents, several PFASs exhibited high dermal absorption (29.5–82.8%). PFAS exposure induced epidermal damage and metabolomic evidence of stratum corneum hydration and membrane pathway disruption, consistent with skin barrier breakdown; low-dose PFHxA effects may be reversible.
Impact: Provides mechanistic and quantitative evidence of PFAS dermal penetration and barrier impairment, informing risk assessment and regulation of cosmetics and personal care products.
Clinical Implications: Clinicians can counsel patients on minimizing PFAS skin exposure and recognize barrier-compromised presentations; findings support safer formulation and regulatory limits.
Key Findings
- In vitro porcine skin studies showed dermal absorption rates of several PFASs ranging from 29.5% to 82.8%.
- PFAS exposure caused scaly lesions, holes, and protrusions in human skin equivalents with concentration-dependent increases in surface roughness.
- Metabolomics indicated disrupted stratum corneum hydration and membrane-related metabolic pathways, consistent with skin barrier breakdown; low-dose PFHxA damage may be reversible.
Methodological Strengths
- Dual-model approach combining porcine skin absorption with human skin equivalent toxicity testing
- Use of SR-FTIR imaging and metabolomics to map biochemical and barrier changes
Limitations
- In vitro systems may not fully replicate human in vivo exposure dynamics and chronic low-dose scenarios
- Detailed exposure concentrations and full PFAS chemical space were limited to selected compounds (e.g., PFHxA, PFNA)
Future Directions: Extend to in vivo human-relevant exposure scenarios, evaluate chronic low-dose effects, and compare across broader PFAS chemistries to inform regulatory thresholds.