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Yearly Report

Cosmetic Research Analysis

2024
10 papers selected
756 analyzed

Across 2025, cosmetic science pivoted from product-level claims to system-level, mechanism-anchored breakthroughs that will reframe safety, efficacy, and sustainable manufacturing. A landmark in situ nanomedicine showed oral zinc supplements self-assemble into tumor-accumulating nanoparticles that stimulate antitumor immunity, while ion-dominant nanotoxicology and a ZnO–peroxisome lipid axis provided the mechanistic spine for safe‑by‑design. Sex‑aware organ‑on‑a‑chip platforms brought human rele

Summary

Across 2025, cosmetic science pivoted from product-level claims to system-level, mechanism-anchored breakthroughs that will reframe safety, efficacy, and sustainable manufacturing. A landmark in situ nanomedicine showed oral zinc supplements self-assemble into tumor-accumulating nanoparticles that stimulate antitumor immunity, while ion-dominant nanotoxicology and a ZnO–peroxisome lipid axis provided the mechanistic spine for safe‑by‑design. Sex‑aware organ‑on‑a‑chip platforms brought human relevance and endocrine context to preclinical testing. Upstream innovation surged with growth‑coupled biomanufacturing achieving gram‑scale xanthommatin pigment production. Safety infrastructure advanced via ISO 23675, a regulatory‑grade in vitro SPF standard, and a non‑targeted adulterant detection pipeline, complemented by field‑deployable Y‑DNA electrochemical sensors. Clinically, phase III ALA–PDT consolidated noninvasive, cosmetically favorable cancer care. Human exposure experiments re‑set risk baselines by showing cosmetic formulations amplify dermal uptake of environmental SVOCs.

Selected Articles

1. Zinc nanoparticles from oral supplements accumulate in renal tumours and stimulate antitumour immune responses.

Nature materials · 2025PMID: 39815063

Oral zinc gluconate self-assembles with plasma proteins to form ZnO nanoparticles in vivo that preferentially accumulate in papillary renal tumors and recruit dendritic and CD8+ T cells, enhancing antitumor immunity in preclinical models.

Impact: Introduces a low-barrier, in situ nanomedicine strategy for tumor-targeted immune activation that could broaden accessibility and accelerate translation.

Clinical Implications: Motivates translational studies to define dosing, biodistribution, safety, tumor specificity, and combinations with checkpoint inhibitors prior to human trials.

Key Findings

  • Protein-assisted in situ assembly of ZnO nanoparticles after oral zinc.
  • Preferential accumulation in papillary renal tumors.
  • Recruitment of dendritic and CD8+ T cells enhancing antitumor immunity.

Methodological Strengths

  • Robust preclinical in vivo models with orthogonal immune profiling
  • Mechanistic validation of tumor accumulation and immune recruitment

Limitations

  • Preclinical-only evidence without human PK/PD data
  • Tumor selectivity characterized primarily in papillary renal models

Future Directions: Advance first-in-human studies with dose-escalation, imaging-based biodistribution, immune correlative endpoints, and rational combinations with checkpoint blockade.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

2. Differential Mapping of Intracellular Metallic Nanoparticles and Ions and Dynamic Modeling Prediction.

ACS Nano · 2025PMID: 40465886

Dual-modal live-cell imaging integrated with kinetic modeling quantified intracellular dissolution of Ag, CuO, and ZnO nanoparticles and demonstrated that dissolved ionic species account for most observed toxicity in a material-dependent manner.

Impact: Provides a first-of-its-kind, real-time partitioning of particle versus ion contributions, enabling tangible safe-by-design levers (coatings, size control, matrix interactions) for nano-enabled cosmetics.

Clinical Implications: Formulators and regulators should prioritize controlling ionic release and incorporate ion-dominant metrics into safety thresholds and product design decisions.

Key Findings

  • Simultaneous visualization and quantification of nanoparticle and ionic forms in live cells.
  • Smaller particles dissolved more (intracellular dissolution ~2.7–34.7%), correlating with toxicity.
  • Ionic species dominated toxicity for Ag, CuO, and ZnO within tested ranges.

Methodological Strengths

  • Integration of real-time live-cell imaging with kinetic dissolution modeling
  • Material-comparative quantitation enabling generalizable safety metrics

Limitations

  • Cell-based systems lack full organismal pharmacokinetics
  • Limited to three metal oxide systems; broader chemistries require validation

Future Directions: Extend to UV filters and hybrid formulations, build in vitro–in vivo correlations, and formalize ion-release thresholds within regulatory submissions.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

3. Biomimetic gender-specific human skin model based on gonads/epidermis-on-a-chip.

Bioactive Materials · 2025PMID: 40697396

A microfluidic gonads/epidermis-on-a-chip integrating ex vivo human epidermis with gonadal cell aggregates modeled endocrine–epidermal crosstalk and revealed sex-hormone–specific effects on proliferation, apoptosis, differentiation, and hyperkeratosis.

Impact: Delivers a scalable, human-relevant platform to capture sex differences in skin biology, addressing a key gap in safety and efficacy evaluation for cosmetics and dermatologic therapeutics.

Clinical Implications: Enables sex-aware profiling of cosmetic ingredients and dermatologic drugs, supporting animal testing reduction and informing personalized regimens based on hormonal milieu.

Key Findings

  • Constructed a functional gonads/epidermis-on-a-chip integrating human epidermis and gonadal aggregates.
  • Estradiol enhanced keratinocyte proliferation and reduced apoptosis; testosterone promoted differentiation and hyperkeratosis.
  • Platform supports sex-aware preclinical testing for cosmetic and dermatologic applications.

Methodological Strengths

  • Human ex vivo tissue integration with controlled microfluidics
  • Mechanistic readouts linking endocrine signals to epidermal phenotypes

Limitations

  • Resource-intensive platform may limit widespread immediate adoption
  • Hormonal contexts and donor variability require broader validation

Future Directions: Inter-lab ring studies to standardize readouts, expand to follicular/immune components, and qualify the platform for regulatory submissions.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

4. Exposure experiments and machine learning revealed that personal care products can significantly increase transdermal exposure of SVOCs from the environment.

Journal of hazardous materials · 2025PMID: 39847938

Volunteer exposure experiments showed that lotions, baby oil, sunscreen, and BB cream increased dermal adsorption of multiple SVOC classes by roughly 1.6–2.0×, with tocopherol-containing formulations amplifying uptake; machine-learning models predicted post-use rises in serum PAHs and TCEP.

Impact: Provides the first human experimental evidence that cosmetic formulations materially alter environmental chemical uptake and predicted systemic burden, challenging current exposure assumptions.

Clinical Implications: Supports counseling vulnerable groups on ingredient-driven uptake and informs regulators to incorporate co-exposure and formulation effects into safety testing and labeling.

Key Findings

  • Common personal care products increased dermal SVOC adsorption by ~1.63–2.03×.
  • Tocopherol-containing formulations further amplified uptake (~2.59×).
  • ML predicted increases in serum 2–3 ring PAHs and TCEP post-use.

Methodological Strengths

  • Human volunteer exposure with controlled formulation comparisons
  • Integration of experimental data with predictive ML models for systemic burden

Limitations

  • Short-term exposure windows limit chronic risk inference
  • Potential confounders across formulations and behaviors need broader sampling

Future Directions: Conduct longitudinal, multi-product studies with direct serum measurements and incorporate formulation variables into regulatory risk assessment frameworks.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

5. Zinc oxide nanoparticles disrupt peroxisome-endoplasmic reticulum contacts and increase very-long-chain fatty acid content.

The Journal of Biological Chemistry · 2025PMID: 40680838

In vivo and in vitro work identified a SIRT1–FOXO3–ACBD5 axis by which ZnO nanoparticles reduce peroxisome–ER contacts, suppress peroxisomal β-oxidation, and elevate hepatic VLCFAs; genetic manipulation of ACBD5 supported causality.

Impact: Reveals a mechanistic link between a ubiquitous sunscreen ingredient and systemic lipid homeostasis, informing biomarker strategies and regulatory safety assessment.

Clinical Implications: Safety dossiers should incorporate peroxisomal function biomarkers (e.g., ACBD5) and systemic lipid endpoints, optimize formulations to minimize exposure, and enhance targeted post-market surveillance.

Key Findings

  • ZnO reduced peroxisome–ER contacts and peroxisomal β-oxidation while increasing hepatic VLCFAs in vivo.
  • ACBD5 downregulation mediated the lipid phenotype; overexpression rescued and knockdown mimicked ZnO effects.
  • SIRT1/FOXO3 modulation mechanistically linked to ACBD5 regulation.

Methodological Strengths

  • Convergent in vivo/in vitro evidence with genetic gain/loss-of-function
  • Pathway-level dissection linking nanosafety to lipid metabolism biomarkers

Limitations

  • Animal dosing and exposure routes may not mirror typical human dermal use
  • Translatability to cutaneous endpoints requires human data

Future Directions: Deploy ACBD5 and VLCFA panels in human exposure cohorts, and engineer formulations that minimize peroxisomal disruption while maintaining UV protection.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

6. Y-Shaped Deoxyribonucleic Acid Scaffold Pendulums: A One-Step Electrochemical Sensor.

ACS sensors · 2025PMID: 40196907

A split-aptamer Y-shaped DNA molecular pendulum sensor achieved one-step detection of small molecules and low-molecular-weight proteins in complex matrices, including cosmetics, with regulatory-relevant sensitivity.

Impact: Field-deployable and adaptable sensing platform enabling rapid QC and surveillance for cosmetic products; methodological innovation likely to inform biosensor design broadly.

Clinical Implications: Supports on-site screening for contaminants and residues in products and biofluids, aiding regulatory compliance and dermatologic decision-making.

Key Findings

  • Stable Y-shaped DNA configuration with strong signal and broad dynamic range.
  • Quantified enrofloxacin across 0.001–100 ng/mL in milk, artificial urine, and cosmetics.
  • Recognition strand exchange enabled myoglobin detection.

Methodological Strengths

  • One-step electrochemical readout in complex cosmetic matrices
  • Modular aptamer exchange enabling rapid target reconfiguration

Limitations

  • Initial demonstrations cover limited analyte classes
  • Operational stability and shelf-life require validation for field deployment

Future Directions: Expand target libraries (e.g., steroids, preservatives), integrate with handheld readers, and embed into regulatory surveillance workflows.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

7. Growth-coupled microbial biosynthesis of the animal pigment xanthommatin.

Nature Biotechnology · 2025PMID: 41184490

A plug-and-play, growth-coupled design linked C1 metabolic restoration to pigment synthesis in Pseudomonas putida, enabling adaptive evolution and gram-scale xanthommatin production from glucose.

Impact: Establishes a generalizable, sustainable manufacturing paradigm for specialty cosmetic pigments, with potential to reshape supply chains.

Clinical Implications: Indirect clinical impact via safer, consistent ingredients; necessitates rigorous stability and toxicology programs for regulatory acceptance.

Key Findings

  • Growth coupling linked C1 auxotrophy rescue to pigment formation.
  • Adaptive laboratory evolution achieved gram-scale production from glucose.
  • Demonstrated a plug-and-play natural product biosynthesis platform.

Methodological Strengths

  • Growth-coupled selection driving scalable yields
  • Adaptive evolution framework generalizable to other natural products

Limitations

  • Downstream purification, colorfastness, and stability not fully characterized
  • Toxicology and environmental fate assessments remain to be completed

Future Directions: Undertake toxicology and stability programs, extend platform to diverse pigment chemistries, and develop traceable, GMP-ready supply chains.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

8. Red light photodynamic therapy with 10% aminolevulinic acid gel showed efficacy for treatment of superficial basal cell carcinoma in a randomized, vehicle controlled, double-blind, multicenter phase III study.

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology · 2025PMID: 40846240

A multicenter double-blind phase III RCT showed 10% ALA gel plus red-light PDT achieved high clinical and histologic clearance for superficial BCC versus vehicle, with acceptable safety and favorable cosmetic ratings.

Impact: Delivers level I evidence for a noninvasive, cosmetically favorable option for sBCC, expanding choices in sensitive cosmetic areas.

Clinical Implications: Consider ALA–PDT as first-line or alternative in sBCC when cosmesis is prioritized or surgery is contraindicated; discuss retreatment and durability.

Key Findings

  • Histologic clearance 75.9% and clinical clearance 83.4% versus vehicle controls.
  • Acceptable safety; 88.1% patient-rated cosmetic outcomes as good/very good.
  • Randomized, vehicle-controlled, double-blind, multicenter phase III design.

Methodological Strengths

  • Gold-standard randomized, double-blind, multicenter phase III design
  • Histologic verification of clearance outcomes

Limitations

  • Long-term durability beyond the study horizon needs clarification
  • Comparative effectiveness versus surgery and other modalities remains to be mapped

Future Directions: Undertake head-to-head trials versus surgery and rhenium-SCT, optimize light/dose parameters, and evaluate real-world recurrence and cosmesis over years.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

9. A novel integrated strategy combining feature-based molecular networking, QSIIR modeling, and in silico toxicity prediction accelerates the screening of illegal additives in cosmetics: Quinolones as a case study.

Talanta · 2026PMID: 40882415

An integrated non-targeted pipeline (FBMN + QSIIR MLR + in silico toxicity) clustered 51 quinolones (14 novel) into 13 groups, achieved ~1 ppm LOD in cosmetic matrices, and predicted concentrations from structural descriptors to prioritize hazardous adulterants.

Impact: Operationalizes scalable surveillance to uncover concealed and novel adulterants with minimal reliance on reference standards.

Clinical Implications: Enables earlier recalls and clinician attribution of adverse reactions to illicit agents; strengthens consumer safety.

Key Findings

  • FBMN clustered 51 quinolones (14 novel analogs) into 13 structural groups.
  • Limit of detection ~1 ppm in cosmetic matrices.
  • QSIIR MLR predicted concentrations accurately; in silico toxicity informed prioritization.

Methodological Strengths

  • Non-targeted, structure-informed detection reducing dependence on standards
  • Quantitative modeling enabling risk prioritization within complex matrices

Limitations

  • Validated on quinolones; generalization to other classes requires testing
  • Regulatory adoption and inter-lab reproducibility need formalization

Future Directions: Expand to corticosteroids, antibiotics, and bleaching agents; build national surveillance networks and data standards for rapid alerts.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.

10. Performance assessment of the Double Plate method (ISO23675) in ALT-SPF Consortium: A highly reproducible and accurate in vitro method to determine SPF.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science · 2025PMID: 40888052

A five-lab ring test across 32 formulations demonstrated high intra-/inter-lab precision and accuracy (after mathematical adjustment) versus the ISO 24444:2019 in vivo reference, supporting ISO 23675 as a scalable non-animal SPF method.

Impact: Operationalizes a regulatory-grade in vitro SPF standard that can reduce human testing and improve label reliability.

Clinical Implications: Enables more consistent photoprotection counseling and may streamline regulatory pathways and product development cycles.

Key Findings

  • Met ISO precision criteria with strong intra-/inter-lab reproducibility.
  • Mathematical adjustment aligned in vitro outputs with ISO 24444 in vivo reference.
  • Robotic application minimized operator variability.

Methodological Strengths

  • Multi-lab ring testing establishing reproducibility and accuracy
  • Automation and mathematical alignment to in vivo reference

Limitations

  • Scope focused on SPF; UVA/photostability require complementary methods
  • Edge-case formulations may still deviate and need guardrails

Future Directions: Harmonize global adoption, extend to UVA and water resistance, and validate real‑world correlation across diverse consumer use patterns.

Abstract not available in provided dataset.