Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis

Small everyday wounds would benefit from optimal healing conditions, and the role of the microbiome in this process is being increasingly discussed. Objectives: To evaluate a wound repair cream (Cicabio Crème+, NAOS Ecobiology Company, Bioderma, France), assessing its effects on the skin microbiome and wound healing. The impact on the microbiome was evaluated by monitoring restoration of diversity after disinfection. The efficacy of the repair complex was assessed ex vivo using a 3D wound-healing human skin model to analyse closure and protein expression. Short-term evaluation of adherence, gas permeability, wound protection, and hydration was assessed. In vivo efficacy was examined through two clinical studies: one on healing erosive areas and another after chemical peel. After disinfection, the cream accelerated restoration of microbiome diversity (+31%, p=0.001) without promoting pathogenic/commensal bacteria or altering the level of Staphylococcus epidermidis (p=0.193). In a 3D wound-healing model, the repair complex enhanced wound closure, promoting protein expression (Ki67, loricrin, CD44, collagen XVII, VII, III) and re-epithelialisation. The cream adhered to the skin, allowed gas exchange, and provided protection and hydration. In vivo, the cream reduced transepidermal water loss (day 4: p=0.016; day 7: p=0.014), erythema (day 7: p=0.023), and functional signs (day 4: p=0.032) of erosive wounds. Following chemical peels, the cream reduced inflammation (day 7: p=0.037), visible damage (day 7: p=0.029), and skin pH (day 1: p<0.001). We demonstrate, for the first time, protection of microbiome diversity, stimulation of wound closure, and preservation of skin pH using a wound repair cream.

INTRODUCTION: Recent progress in supramolecule research has led to a surge in its application in cosmetic products. However, comprehensive investigation of the potential benefits, especially differentiating biological activities and associating that with physical-chemical properties, remains to be established. In the current study, a supramolecular salicylic acid-betaine (Supra SA-B) was benchmarked to its physical mixture counterpart for its impact on epidermal homeostasis as well as insult potential when applied topically. METHODS: The structure of supra-SA-B and physical mixture of SA+B (1:1 molar ratio) were characterized by a powder X-ray diffractometer before and after dissolution in aqueous alcohol solution. For skin tolerance evaluation, SA, Supra-SA-B, and SA+B were applied systematically to primary human keratinocytes or topically on the surface of SkinEthic™ RHE reconstructed human epidermal models. Cell and model viabilities were assessed using MTT assay, respectively. Inflammatory cytokines produced by models were assessed using Luminex multi-plex assay. Histological morphology was evaluated by hematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, with aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) and Ki67 measured by immunofluorescence (IF). Finally, RNA-sequencing was conducted to characterize overall biological response based on non-targeted transcriptomic profiles. RESULTS: Characteristic peaks remained the same for Supra-SA-B after freeze drying verified that their crystalline structures, including supramolecular, were retained in the current solution. With the addition of betaine and introduction of supramolecular format, Supra-SA-B treated groups demonstrated significantly higher cell viabilities comparing to SA or SA+B. With 18-hrs of treatment, Supra-SA-B treated group released less inflammatory cytokines. In addition, Supra-SA-B demonstrated better hydration effect with increased AQP-3 expression and more organized epidermal structure, in comparison to either SA alone or SA+B. Consistent result was observed in the RNA transcriptomic profiles of RHE models after treatment. Supra-SA-B did not induce major transcriptome drift as compared to SA or SA+B, with less evident negative impact on loricrin, and late cornified envelope (LCE) gene expression. At the same time, the boosting effect on hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS) was maintained across all the treatments vs. control. CONCLUSION: Our findings indicated that Supra-SA-B ameliorated skin tolerance risk for SA, enhanced hydration with less insult on barrier functions, suggesting promising potential for cosmetic application.

The use of terminology related to animal-free science has grown rapidly over the past two decades; however, definitions and interpretations of key terms remain inconsistent across global regulatory, scientific, and policy contexts. The term 'new approach methodology(ies)' (NAM(s)) exemplifies this issue: Though rarely used prior to 2020, its uptake in scientific literature has increased substantially in recent years. Despite this growth, the term, and its acronym, 'NAM', is used with varied meanings, leading to misunderstanding regarding the types of methods described. Similarly, the term 'animal' is defined differently across common language, scientific discourse, and legal frameworks, resulting in further ambiguity in what constitutes 'animal-free science'. These variations can hinder productive dialogue and collaboration, particularly in international settings. This manuscript maps the current landscape of definitions of key terms such as 'NAM', 'animal', and 'animal-free', drawing on regulatory, academic, and institutional sources to enhance understanding of the range of existing interpretations. By improving transparency and clarity in terminology, this effort seeks to support more coherent and effective global communication in the field of animal-free science. In addition, the definition of NAM, as agreed by the members of the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety, is put forward as a recommendation for future alignment on the term. Tabulated definitions and sources are provided as a reference tool. Over the past 20 years, more people have been talking about animal-free science, but the meaning of key terms like ‘new approach methodology(ies)’ (NAM(s)), or even ‘(protected) animal’ is not always clear. Different people using these terms in different ways can lead to confusion and misunderstandings. This paper looks at how these key terms are currently used and defined around the world. It aims to draw attention to where definitions are similar or different and provides a table as a reference to improve communication and support global collaboration in animal-free science.