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Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis

3 papers

Three studies stand out today: a multicenter phase 4 analysis shows single‑session rhenium-skin cancer therapy achieves high control with favorable cosmesis for shallow NMSC; a Science Advances paper unveils how mixed surfactants control water transport and stability in double emulsions, guiding cosmetic and drug delivery formulations; and rheological profiling of fat-derived products links viscoelastic properties to clinical use in facial rejuvenation.

Summary

Three studies stand out today: a multicenter phase 4 analysis shows single‑session rhenium-skin cancer therapy achieves high control with favorable cosmesis for shallow NMSC; a Science Advances paper unveils how mixed surfactants control water transport and stability in double emulsions, guiding cosmetic and drug delivery formulations; and rheological profiling of fat-derived products links viscoelastic properties to clinical use in facial rejuvenation.

Research Themes

  • Noninvasive oncologic therapies with cosmetic advantages
  • Surfactant engineering for cosmetic/drug delivery emulsions
  • Mechanics-informed selection of fat-derived grafting materials

Selected Articles

1. Efficacy, Safety, and Patient Reported Outcomes of Rhenium-Skin Cancer Therapy for Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: 1-Year Results from the EPIC-Skin Study.

74.5Level IIICohortAdvances in radiation oncology · 2025PMID: 40575594

In this multicenter phase 4 single-arm study of 140 patients (185 lesions), rhenium-SCT achieved a 94.1% complete response rate at 12 months with no procedure pain, mainly grade 1–2 radiation dermatitis, and favorable cosmesis (patient 8.1; clinician 7.7/10). Quality of life improved by 10.55 points, and no grade ≥3 toxicities were observed.

Impact: Demonstrates a highly effective, single-session, noninvasive alternative to surgery for shallow NMSC with excellent cosmetic outcomes and patient satisfaction.

Clinical Implications: Rhenium-SCT can be considered for stage I–II, ≤3 mm-deep NMSC when functional or cosmetic priorities favor nonsurgical therapy, offering high control and cosmesis with minimal toxicity.

Key Findings

  • Complete response in 94.1% (174/185) of lesions at 12 months; partial response 3.2%.
  • Mean quality-of-life improvement of 10.55 points (95% CI 3.79–17.31) on a 100-point scale.
  • Radiation dermatitis occurred in 88% (mostly grade 1–2) and resolved; no grade 3–4 toxicities.
  • Patient- and clinician-rated cosmesis scores were 8.1 and 7.7 out of 10; no reported pain during treatment.

Methodological Strengths

  • Prospective, global multicenter phase 4 design with standardized patient-reported outcomes.
  • Comprehensive safety and cosmesis assessments at 12 months.

Limitations

  • Single-arm design without a randomized comparator.
  • Interim 12-month analysis; longer-term durability beyond 1 year not yet reported.
  • Eligibility restricted to shallow lesions (≤3 mm depth), limiting generalizability.

Future Directions: Randomized trials versus surgery or radiotherapy, longer follow-up, and head-to-head comparisons across lesion locations and skin types to refine selection criteria.

2. Mixed surfactants for stabilizing and controlling water transport in double emulsions.

73Level VBasic/MechanisticScience advances · 2025PMID: 40577458

Using droplet microfluidics and SANS, the authors show that combining polymeric and monomeric surfactants can stabilize thin-shell double emulsions while enabling tunable, interface-controlled water transport via mixed reverse micelles. Polymeric surfactants prevent oil-shell drainage; monomeric surfactants above a threshold boost water transport but shorten emulsion lifespan.

Impact: Provides mechanistic design rules for surfactant combinations to achieve stable, controllable double emulsions, directly informing cosmetic and transdermal delivery formulations.

Clinical Implications: While preclinical, these insights can translate to more stable cosmetic emulsions and tunable release systems for dermal drug delivery, potentially improving product performance and shelf life.

Key Findings

  • Polymeric surfactants prevented oil shell drainage, enhancing double emulsion stability.
  • Monomeric surfactants, above a critical concentration, markedly increased water transport but reduced emulsion lifespan.
  • Swelling kinetics and small-angle neutron scattering showed interface-controlled water transport via mixed reverse micelle solubilization.
  • Droplet microfluidics produced uniform thin oil shells, enabling precise control of interfacial composition.

Methodological Strengths

  • Integration of droplet microfluidics with SANS for mechanistic interrogation of transport.
  • Systematic evaluation of monomeric vs polymeric surfactant roles and concentrations.

Limitations

  • No in vivo or consumer product validation; applicability inferred from physicochemical data.
  • Biocompatibility and long-term storage stability with active ingredients were not assessed.

Future Directions: Translate findings into prototype cosmetic/drug delivery emulsions, assess active loading/release kinetics, skin penetration, safety, and real-world stability.

3. Rheological Characterization of Different Fat-Derived Products.

66Level VBasic/MechanisticAesthetic surgery journal · 2025PMID: 40576796

Across four fat-derived products, AMC showed the highest pre- and post-transplant viscoelasticity (G′ and G″), while Coleman fat was consistently lowest. After transplantation, elasticity (G′) decreased and viscosity (G″) increased in all products. The authors map these profiles to clinical indications: AMC for deep support, SVF-gel for superficial correction, and HDF for midface volume restoration.

Impact: Provides quantitative, mechanistic rationale to match fat-derived products to anatomical indications, moving beyond composition-only descriptions to measurable performance metrics.

Clinical Implications: Selecting fat products based on viscoelastic properties (e.g., AMC for structural support) may improve graft performance, durability, and aesthetic outcomes in facial rejuvenation.

Key Findings

  • AMC had the highest elastic (G′) and viscous (G″) moduli pre-transplant; SVF-gel and HDF were intermediate; Coleman fat was lowest.
  • Post-transplant, G′ decreased and G″ increased across all products, indicating reduced elasticity and increased viscosity.
  • AMC maintained the highest G′ and G″ at 3 months, suggesting superior structural support over time.
  • Clinical mapping: AMC for deep support, SVF-gel for superficial correction, HDF for midface volume; Coleman fat showed lowest mechanical robustness.

Methodological Strengths

  • Direct rheometric quantification of multiple viscoelastic parameters (G′, G″, tanδ, τy).
  • Pre/post-transplant comparisons enabling assessment of in situ changes over time.

Limitations

  • Sample size and subject characteristics are not reported; clinical outcome correlations are inferential.
  • Follow-up limited to 3 months; long-term mechanical evolution and resorption are unknown.
  • Translational gap: no randomized clinical comparison of aesthetic outcomes between products.

Future Directions: Prospective clinical trials linking rheological metrics to graft retention and patient-reported outcomes, with longer follow-up and standardized anatomical sites.