Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis
A multicenter cohort with GWAS refined risk prediction for striae gravidarum in pregnancy. A 43-country, AI-enhanced survey revealed broad public distrust of live cosmetic procedure demonstrations and proposed the INFORM-A ethics checklist. Method validation work showed ISO 23675 (in vitro SPF “double plate” method) reliably measures SPF in zinc oxide-based sunscreens, supporting reproducible, human-sparing testing.
Summary
A multicenter cohort with GWAS refined risk prediction for striae gravidarum in pregnancy. A 43-country, AI-enhanced survey revealed broad public distrust of live cosmetic procedure demonstrations and proposed the INFORM-A ethics checklist. Method validation work showed ISO 23675 (in vitro SPF “double plate” method) reliably measures SPF in zinc oxide-based sunscreens, supporting reproducible, human-sparing testing.
Research Themes
- Genetic risk and prediction in cosmetic dermatology
- Ethics and public trust in aesthetic practice
- Standardization of in vitro SPF testing for inorganic sunscreens
Selected Articles
1. Striae gravidarum in the Han Chinese pregnant population: identifying genetic markers and risk factors through a prospective cohort study.
In a multicenter prospective cohort of 1,017 Han Chinese pregnant women, 59% developed striae gravidarum. Age, family history, prior adolescent striae, Fitzpatrick skin type, and pre-pregnancy BMI were key predictors, and GWAS implicated SNPs in FGF12, RAB38, MUC16, PTPRT, SIPA1L2, PPARGC1A, PTPRD, and ELOVL3. The authors propose a risk model integrating modifiable and non-modifiable factors to guide counseling.
Impact: This is a large, prospective cohort with a GWAS that identifies genetic loci and clinical predictors of striae gravidarum, advancing mechanistic understanding and enabling risk stratification.
Clinical Implications: Enables counseling on modifiable risks (e.g., pre-pregnancy weight/BMI) and sets the stage for personalized prevention strategies safe during pregnancy and postpartum.
Key Findings
- SG incidence was 59% in the cohort.
- Significant associations with age, pre-pregnancy weight/BMI, maximum pregnancy weight, BMI during pregnancy, and maximum abdominal girth.
- Risk factors included family history, prior adolescent striae, and Fitzpatrick skin type.
- Multivariable logistic regression identified age, family history, prior striae, skin type, and pre-pregnancy BMI as predictors.
- GWAS implicated SNPs in FGF12, RAB38, MUC16, PTPRT, SIPA1L2, PPARGC1A, PTPRD, and ELOVL3 in SG presence and severity.
Methodological Strengths
- Prospective multicenter design with sizable sample (n=1,017).
- Integration of GWAS with multivariable regression to identify predictors.
Limitations
- Generalisability may be limited to Han Chinese; external validation is needed.
- Observational design precludes causal inference and may be subject to residual confounding.
Future Directions: External validation across diverse populations; functional studies of implicated loci; development and clinical testing of personalized, pregnancy-safe prevention strategies.
BACKGROUND: Striae gravidarum (SG), commonly known as stretch marks, are a frequent connective tissue alteration observed in pregnant women. The presence of SG can negatively impact postpartum women's self-perception, potentially resulting in diminished self-esteem and psychological issues, including anxiety and depression. The study aimed to evaluate the potential risk factors and genetic associations of SG within a Chinese Han population. METHODS: A multicenter trial was conducted involving 1,017 pregnant women of Chinese Han descent who provided informed consent. Participants completed questionnaires on demographics, medical history, and lifestyle factors. Anthropometric measurements and obstetric data were gathered, followed by a genome-wide association study (GWAS). RESULTS: The study found that 59% of participants developed SG. Significant correlations were observed between SG and factors including age, pre-pregnancy weight, maximum pregnancy weight during pregnancy, BMI before and during pregnancy, and maximum abdomen girth. Risk factors for SG included a positive family history, prior experience of striae distensae during adolescence, and specific skin types according to the Fitzpatrick classification. Multivariable logistic regression analysis indicated that age, family history, history of striae distensae, skin types, and pre-pregnancy BMI were notable predictors of SG. The GWAS identified several single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) related to SG presence and severity, involving genes including FGF12, RAB38, MUC16, PTPRT, SIPA1L2, PPARGC1A, PTPRD, and ELOVL3. CONCLUSION: The study presents a predictive model for SG risk that incorporating non-modifiable factors like family history and skin type, and modifiable factors such as pre-pregnancy weight and BMI. The findings offer valuable insights into the genetic underpinnings of SG and have the potential to inform patient counseling on strategies for risk mitigation. Moreover, the identified risk factors can enhance patient counseling, while therapeutic interventions should be specifically tailored to options that are safe during pregnancy or suitable for the postpartum period.
2. 'Your Face, Their Stage': A Global, AI-Enhanced, Mixed-Methods Survey on Public Perceptions of Live Educational Cosmetic Procedures.
A multilingual cross-sectional survey of 16,950 respondents across 43 countries found widespread ethical discomfort with live cosmetic procedure demonstrations: 76.5% perceived self-promotion and 69.7% privacy compromise. AI/NLP analyses showed nearly half of narratives were negative (dominant emotions: disgust, concern), and ML models (AUC 0.82, F1 0.765) identified predictors of negative sentiment. The authors propose the INFORM-A checklist to guide ethical broadcasting.
Impact: This large, AI-enhanced, mixed-methods study quantifies global public concerns around live cosmetic procedures and provides an actionable ethical framework (INFORM-A) likely to influence professional standards and conference practices.
Clinical Implications: Encourages shifting from live procedural demonstrations to consent-driven, accountable, recorded educational formats; enhances privacy, autonomy, and psychological safety in aesthetic practice.
Key Findings
- 76.5% of respondents believed live procedures are self-promotional.
- 69.7% perceived live procedures as compromising patient privacy.
- 49.8% of narratives were negative; dominant emotions were disgust (24.3%) and concern (22.8%).
- Topic modeling highlighted concerns including commercial exploitation (22.5%), consent power imbalance (19.3%), and surveillance culture (14.2%).
- Predictive models achieved AUC 0.82 and F1 0.765; key predictors included narrative polarity, region, emotional tone, and prior cosmetic experience.
- The INFORM-A checklist was proposed to guide ethical conduct of live/recorded procedural broadcasts.
Methodological Strengths
- Very large, multilingual global sample with mixed-methods design.
- AI-enhanced analytics (NLP, sentiment analysis, ML) with reported performance metrics (AUC, F1).
Limitations
- Cross-sectional design limits causal inference; potential self-selection and response biases.
- Public perceptions may not reflect clinical outcomes or professional educational needs.
Future Directions: Assess the impact of implementing INFORM-A on patient outcomes and trust; replicate with clinician and patient cohorts; develop policy and accreditation standards for educational broadcasts.
BACKGROUND: The global rise of live cosmetic procedure demonstrations particularly in non-surgical aesthetic medicine has prompted growing ethical concern. While often framed as educational, these public displays risk conflating clinical care with commercial performance. METHODS: A multilingual cross-sectional survey of 16,950 participants from 43 countries captured public perceptions of live aesthetic procedures using both structured and open-ended items. AI-enhanced methodologies including natural language processing (NLP), sentiment analysis, and machine learning (ML) were applied to assess attitudes, emotional responses, and predictors of negative sentiment. RESULTS: Respondents exhibited high levels of ethical discomfort: 76.5% believed live procedures served self-promotional aims, while 69.7% perceived them as compromising patient privacy. Narrative analysis showed that 49.8% of open-text responses expressed negative sentiment, with dominant emotional tones being disgust (24.3%) and concern (22.8%). Topic modelling identified six core public concerns: commercial exploitation (22.5%), power imbalance in consent (19.3%), and surveillance culture (14.2%) among them. Predictive modelling using logistic regression and random forest classifiers (AUC = 0.82, F1 = 0.765) revealed narrative polarity, region, emotional tone, and prior cosmetic experience as significant predictors of negative sentiment. Respondents with no prior procedural history were more likely to describe feelings of exposure, shame, and loss of autonomy. Notably, nearly half of respondents expressed concern about the future of cosmetic medicine, citing risks of performance-driven care and ethical erosion. In response, we propose the INFORM-A checklist, an evidence-based ethical framework to guide the conduct of live or recorded procedural broadcasts. CONCLUSION: Public perception of live cosmetic procedures is characterised by scepticism and emotional discomfort, particularly when transparency and ethical safeguards are absent. The educational value of these practices is widely contested, with findings suggesting a misalignment between professional intent and public trust. Regulators, practitioners, and conference organisers must reevaluate the ethics of live procedural demonstrations in favour of consent-driven, accountable, and psychologically safe educational alternatives. LEVEL OF EVIDENCE IV: This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .
3. The double plate in vitro SPF test method (ISO23675:2024) is a reliable means of measuring the performance of sunscreen products with high concentrations of zinc oxide and inorganic-only UV filters.
Using ISO 23675 (in vitro SPF 'double plate' method), the authors directly measured zinc oxide-based sunscreens and demonstrated reliable SPF determination even at high inorganic filter concentrations. Critiques based on non-ISO in vitro approaches do not apply to ISO 23675, supporting its adoption for inorganic-only formulations.
Impact: Validates a newly standardized in vitro SPF method for inorganic sunscreens, improving reproducibility and reducing reliance on in vivo testing, with direct implications for product labeling and regulation.
Clinical Implications: Supports clinicians and consumers in trusting in vitro SPF values for zinc oxide-based sunscreens; facilitates ethically preferable testing and more consistent labeling for inorganic filter products.
Key Findings
- Direct ISO 23675 measurements showed reliable SPF determination for ZnO-based sunscreens, even at high inorganic filter concentrations.
- Assumptions and limitations from other in vitro methods do not apply to ISO 23675.
- The work supports adopting ISO 23675 as a robust alternative to ISO 24444 in vivo testing for inorganic-only formulations.
Methodological Strengths
- Use of a standardized ISO method (ISO 23675) tailored for in vitro SPF assessment.
- Direct testing on ZnO-based formulations addressing a specific controversy about inorganic filters.
Limitations
- Number and types of tested products are not detailed in the abstract, limiting assessment of generalizability.
- Quantitative concordance with in vivo ISO 24444 is not presented in the abstract.
Future Directions: Inter-laboratory ring trials, comprehensive datasets spanning diverse vehicles and particle sizes, and systematic correlation studies with ISO 24444 to strengthen regulatory adoption.
Sunscreen products and cosmetics containing UV filters are chosen by consumers based primarily on their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. The determination of this metric has been subject to significant advancement, both in vivo (ISO 24444:2019) and, more recently, in vitro. The recent publication by the International Standards Organization (ISO) of two, new alternative methods to the in vivo ISO 24444 method (In Vitro SPF 'Double Plate' Method ISO 23675:2024 and Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy ISO 23698:2024) marks a major step forward in improving the reproducibility of results while addressing ethical concerns. A recent article, however, has alleged that alternative SPF methods may not reliably assess the SPF of products containing inorganic filters, such as zinc oxide (ZnO). While the observed lack of correlation with the reference in vivo method ISO 24444 is not based on ISO23675 (the authors chose to use in-house in vitro methods), their hypothesis raised indirectly the question of applicability of ISO 23675 in relation to measurement of sunscreens containing ZnO. In this article, therefore, we report data from direct measurements of SPF values for ZnO-based sunscreens using ISO 23675. We demonstrate that assumptions arising from other in vitro methods are not relevant to ISO 23675 and prove that this method can reliably measure the SPF of sunscreen products containing inorganic filters, even at high concentrations.