Daily Cosmetic Research Analysis
Analyzed 17 papers and selected 3 impactful papers.
Summary
Three impactful studies span cosmetic safety, environmental risk modeling, and translational dermatologic innovation. A new tiered MERCI modeling framework estimates direct environmental exposures of UV filters from suncare use; a formulation study advances niosome delivery of cationic antimicrobial peptides targeting acne bacteria with low cytotoxicity; and a market-wide label analysis reveals high allergen prevalence in moisturizers, challenging “hypoallergenic” claims.
Research Themes
- Cosmetic ingredient safety and allergen exposure
- Environmental risk assessment for suncare UV filters
- Nanocarrier delivery of antimicrobial peptides for acne
Selected Articles
1. Screening-level exposure Models to Evaluate the direct Release of Cosmetic Ingredients (MERCI): Development and application to UV filters used in suncare products.
This paper introduces the tiered MERCI framework (SUNscreen and multi-SUNscreen) to estimate direct aquatic emissions of UV filters from suncare use. Applied to octocrylene, both models produced conservative screening-level concentrations aligned within an order of magnitude of monitoring data, enabling practical use in risk assessment and research prioritization.
Impact: It fills a key methodological gap by standardizing screening-level exposure estimation for cosmetic UV filters with external plausibility checks. This enables consistent, transparent environmental risk assessments that inform regulation and product stewardship.
Clinical Implications: While not directly clinical, the model supports balanced counseling on sunscreen choices by quantifying environmental exposures, aiding dermatologists and public health in communicating evidence-based product stewardship.
Key Findings
- Developed a tiered MERCI framework (SUNscreen tier 1; multi-SUNscreen tier 2) for direct-release exposure of cosmetic UV filters.
- SUNscreen estimated octocrylene at 422 ng/L (freshwater), 191–428 ng/L (marine), and 206 ng/g dw (freshwater sediment) and 94–210 ng/g dw (marine sediment).
- multi-SUNscreen estimated 81 ng/L in freshwater and 0.5 ng/g dw in sediment, within an order of magnitude of monitoring data.
Methodological Strengths
- Tiered, conservative modeling with explicit scenario parameters (user numbers, skin area, wash-off).
- External plausibility checks by comparing estimates with environmental monitoring data.
Limitations
- Relies on assumptions about consumer behavior and product use (wash-off rates, coverage) that may vary by context.
- Demonstrated primarily for octocrylene; broader validation across UV filters and geographies is needed.
Future Directions: Integrate real-world usage data, expand validation to diverse UV filters and locales, and couple with fate/transport and effects modules for full risk characterization.
Concerns regarding the environmental risks of UV-filters used in suncare products have grown in recent years. Much of this concern has been driven by their use in products by consumers engaged in outdoor recreational activities, such as swimming, which can facilitate their direct emissions into aquatic systems. Uncertainties in estimating the amount of a UV-filter that might be directly emitted to water, however, represent a continuing challenge, and include the need to quantify the number of users of suncare products, the skin area covered, the concentration of the UV-filter in the product and the extent to which the UV-filter is 'washed-off'. This study aims to address this gap, which includes the development and application of screening-level exposure Models to Evaluate the direct Release of Cosmetic Ingredients (MERCI). The tier 1 and 2 MERCI models-SUNscreen and multi-SUNscreen-are described, with application to octocrylene, a well-studied UV-filter used in suncare products. Model results suggest that both tools provide reasonable estimates of environmental exposure. Specifically, the tier 1 SUNscreen model, estimates an environmental concentration of 422 ng·L-1 in freshwater and range from 191-428 ng·L-1 in marine water capturing differences between low-moderate tidal dilution rates, whereas sediment concentrations are estimated to be 206 ng·g-1 dw (freshwater) and 94-210 ng·g-1 dw (marine). The tier 2 multi-SUNscreen model, on the other hand, estimates freshwater concentrations of 81 ng·L-1 in water and 0.5 ng·g-1 dw in sediment, results that are observed to be within an order of magnitude of monitoring data. Overall, both models support a conservative, screening-level approach for estimating environmental exposure to UV-filters, and thus represent tools that can be readily utilized to support both risk assessment and research prioritization.
2. Preparation and Characterization of Niosomes Containing Cationic Antimicrobial Peptides WSKK11 and WSRR11.
Niosomes efficiently encapsulated cationic antimicrobial peptides WSKK11 and WSRR11 (∼84–89% entrapment) with micrometer-scale, negatively charged, spherical particles and low cytotoxicity in human skin cell lines. These data provide proof-of-principle for using niosomes as delivery vehicles against acne-causing bacteria.
Impact: Demonstrates a translational nanocarrier strategy for antimicrobial peptides targeting acne bacteria, addressing antibiotic resistance and tolerability challenges in aesthetic dermatology.
Clinical Implications: If validated in vivo, niosomal peptide delivery could expand non-antibiotic options for acne management with favorable tolerability profiles.
Key Findings
- High encapsulation efficiencies for WSKK11 and WSRR11 across methods (∼84–89%).
- Particles were spherical, micrometer-scale (0.75–2.02 μm) with negative zeta potentials (−44 to −61 mV) and acceptable PDIs.
- Low cytotoxicity toward human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (MRC-5) cell lines.
- Establishes proof-of-principle for niosomes as delivery vehicles against acne-causing bacteria.
Methodological Strengths
- Comprehensive physicochemical characterization (HPLC, FTIR, DLS, TEM/SEM).
- Biocompatibility assessment using relevant human skin cell lines.
Limitations
- In vitro study without in vivo efficacy or pharmacokinetic validation.
- Micrometer-scale particle sizes may limit follicular penetration; optimization may be required.
Future Directions: Optimize particle size and surface properties for follicular targeting, benchmark against standard acne treatments, and evaluate efficacy/safety in animal models and clinical trials.
Niosomal vesicles were formulated to encapsulate the antimicrobial peptides WSKK11-(K) and WSRR11 (R), using thin film (TF) hydration and reverse-phase evaporation (ReF). Drug entrapment efficiency was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Particle characterization included photon correlation spectrophotometry (Zetasizer), light and inverted microscopy, transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities of the niosomes were also evaluated. FTIR investigation showed that WSKK11 and WSRR11 could be successfully encapsulated. KTF and RTF encapsulated about 83.93 ± 0.15% of WSKK11 and 88.58 ± 9.92% of WSRR11, while KReF and RReF encapsulated 88.72 ± 9.78 and 89.36 ± 9.22%, respectively. Thin film hydration (CTF-control, KTF, and RTF) exhibited a mean particle size of 1.28-2.02 μm with size distribution (PDI = 0.40-0.45) and zeta potential (-44.2 to -47.3), while reverse-phase evaporation (CReF-control, KReF, and RReF) gave a mean particle size of 0.75-1.84 μm with size distribution (PDI = 0.16-0.48) and zeta potential (-49.4 to -60.8). The niosomes exhibited spherical structures within the micrometer-scale range, as observed by TEM and SEM analyses. Analyses revealed a low cytotoxicity against human keratinocyte HaCaT and fibroblast MRC-5 cells. Therefore, these results provide proof of principle for the effective use of niosomes as a delivery vehicle for antimicrobial peptides to treat acne-causing bacteria.
3. Allergic Risk of Moisturising Cosmetic Products: A Study on the Composition of 300 Products Commercialised in Tunisia.
Analyzing 300 moisturizers in Tunisia, fragrances appeared in 84.7% of formulations, and only 86.8% of 'fragrance-free' products were truly free of fragrances. Preservatives and solvents with allergenic potential (e.g., isothiazolinones 7%, formaldehyde releasers 10.3%, propylene glycol 28%) were common, underscoring gaps between marketing claims and allergen content.
Impact: Provides real-world, systematic evidence of allergen prevalence in moisturizers and partial misalignment of 'fragrance-free/hypoallergenic' labeling, directly informing dermatology counseling and regulatory discussions.
Clinical Implications: Clinicians can guide patients with allergic contact dermatitis to avoid high-risk ingredients (e.g., fragrances, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, propylene glycol) and interpret labeling claims cautiously.
Key Findings
- Fragrances were present in 84.7% of products; only 15.3% were free of fragrances and plant extracts.
- Among 'fragrance-free' products, 86.8% were truly fragrance-free, indicating 13.2% mismatch.
- Isothiazolinones were detected in 7% (mainly leave-on, locally manufactured); formaldehyde releasers in 10.3%; propylene glycol in 28%; phenoxyethanol in 37.7%.
Methodological Strengths
- Systematic INCI label screening across supermarkets and pharmacies with synonym mapping in English and French.
- Large product sample (n=300) capturing multiple market segments.
Limitations
- Relies on labeling accuracy; no chemical analytical confirmation was performed.
- Single-country sampling may limit generalizability.
Future Directions: Incorporate analytical chemistry verification, expand to multi-country sampling, and link product content to patch test outcomes for clinical correlation.
BACKGROUND: Moisturising cosmetic products (MCP) formulations may contain ingredients known to trigger allergic contact dermatitis. Claims such as 'hypoallergenic' or 'fragrance-free' are commonly used in marketing, yet these terms are not consistently regulated, potentially posing a risk for patients with allergic contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVES: To assess the allergenic potential of moisturisers by analysing their ingredients and determining the prevalence of contact allergens. METHODS: A survey conducted between April and June 2023. MCPs were collected from supermarkets and pharmacies. Data analysis focused on allergen prevalence and product origin. All products were systematically screened for seven targeted allergenic components by reviewing their ingredient labels (INCI): isothiazolinones, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde and its releasers, lanolin, fragrances, parabens and propylene glycol. All allergens included in our study were systematically searched for all relevant synonyms in both English and French. RESULTS: Three hundred products were analysed, including 153 items (51%) from supermarkets and 147 (49%) from pharmacies. Fragrances were the most frequently identified allergens, present in 84.7% of formulations. Only 15.3% of products were free from fragrances and plant extracts. Among those labelled 'fragrance-free', 86.8% (46 of 53) were truly free of fragrances. Isothiazolinones were found in 7% of products, predominantly in leave-on formulations and locally manufactured brands. Formaldehyde-releasing agents were detected in 10.3% of products, with higher prevalence in supermarkets and leave-on items. Parabens were present in 10.7%, including two products with hydroxybenzoate. Propylene glycol was identified in 28% of products; still, 24.3% (18 of 74) of hypoallergenic-labelled products contained it. Phenoxyethanol appeared in 37.7% of formulations and was more common in supermarket-sold products. Lanolin was found in 2.7% of the products. CONCLUSION: The study highlights a high prevalence of contact allergens in MCPs, including those marketed as hypoallergenic.